OPINION: Sustainable fashion in the age of SHEIN

The fashion industry is a $2.4 trillion industry that some say puts profits over people and the planet. Meet the local activists who are unraveling fast fashion’s façade and advocating for sustainable fashion practices.

Facing the facts

Fashion Revolution, a consumer activist group, reports that low wages for garment workers were worsened by the COVID-19 pandemic. In Southern India, the legal minimum wage for these workers is $6.53, but in practice the pay can be half that amount. Clothing companies canceled orders on a massive scale during the pandemic, leaving many workers unpaid.

Women make up the majority of garment workers and are subject to gender-based violence. Sexual harassment is rampant in factories, but women are often threatened with retaliation if they report it. It’s difficult to enforce legal protections for workers.

 “I think people are so far removed from fast fashion,” said Molly Whitlock ‘23, a double major in accounting and environmental studies. “We don’t see people putting their blood into these clothes that we’re buying so cheaply.”

The Rana Plaza factory building collapse in Bangladesh is an example of garment workers paying for our cheap clothes with their lives. In April 2013, factory owners dismissed safety concerns over structural cracks in the building. Businesses on the lower level of Rana Plaza shut down, but garment workers above them had to continue as usual. The accident killed over 1,000 people and injured many more.

Brands across the world were linked to this tragedy. Walmart, J.C. Penney and more failed to ensure safe working conditions in their supply chain. This highlights a persisting pattern in the industry. 

For example, internet-famous SHEIN violates Chinese labor laws. Workers have no employment contract and average about 75 hours of work per week. Additionally, the factories they source from ignore basic safety standards.

Environmental ethics

“Luxury brands still use fast fashion, but people don’t think of that. Just because it costs a lot doesn’t mean they’re not using that production model. For example, Louis Vuitton gets a tax credit for burning products they don’t sell,” said Whitlock. It creates fake scarcity to maintain the brand’s status. 

According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 73% of the materials used to produce clothing are destroyed at the end of their life and less than 1% of old clothing is upcycled. The global fashion industry is also responsible for 4% of total greenhouse gas emissions. 

Another environmental concern is the amount of resources it uses. The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion reported that around 2.1 trillion liters of water per year are used for production. Additionally, textiles are responsible for 9% of microplastics that pollute the ocean annually.

Consumer culture

Over-consumption is one of the biggest threats to the environment according to Whitlock. Quickly changing trends cause people to buy clothing they get rid of soon after.

“It’s not sustainable to over-consume from a brand marketed as eco-friendly,” said Whitlock.

Grace Nelles ‘22, an environmental studies major also offered her perspective. She said that young people face the challenge of pursuing education and early careers without much financial independence. 

“When we need clothes, we’re in the position of shopping based on price instead of quality and ethical production. Most of what we can afford is based on the fast fashion model. They build clothes that fall apart to keep customers coming back,” said Nelles. 

Additionally, she said that young people have the most social pressure to be stylish. Trends target them and videos like SHEIN Hauls go viral on TikTok. As with any social platform, however, there’s a variety of content and perspectives. Nelles said that thrifting is also becoming popular online, along with altering or upcycling clothes.

“I also think about the power young people have over companies. Holding them accountable for ethical production is something we’re seeing. Increasing awareness is a big deal, because you need to recognize the problem before you can fix it,” said Nelles.

Individual impact

There are many organizations and activists doing the work to make fashion more sustainable. It’s important not to lose hope, because there’s steps everyone can take. 

Besides thrifting, you can choose to host a clothing swap with friends. It’s a good way to update your closet for free and keep clothes out of the landfill. Remake also organizes these, along with sustainable fashion campaigns you can get involved with. Even brands themselves are launching their own resale and mending programs.

Sustainability spotlight

Elizabeth Joy is a local sustainable fashion blogger sharing resources. Some of her recommendations are this brand guide, Fair Trade company Mata Traders and the Midwest hub of Fashion Revolution.

She discussed positive changes in the industry including the #PayUp campaign by Remake and the Garment Worker Protection Act passed in California. The #PayUp campaign helped recover wages from cancelled orders due to the pandemic. The Garment Worker Protection Act provides minimum wage in California instead of payment per piece.

“The most powerful people want to keep their power. If we come together as a community about the way they do things, they have to listen to us. Brands’ reputations are important to sustaining their profits. We need to call them out, post on social media and push for legislation. We need to put pressure on industry groups and lawmakers to do the right thing,” said Joy.

She said that it’s important to prioritize small businesses and encourage them to be more inclusive. This includes advocating for a wider size range there and in second-hand shops. Joy said we must also elevate BIPOC and LGBTQ+ voices. These groups are leading the change for a better fashion future. A democratic fashion system where there aren’t brands more powerful than countries is what she thinks we should be working towards.

“Sustainable fashion has to include people and workers. What type of industry or world are we sustaining if there’s exploitation still happening? That’s not a suitable future for fashion if we’re using eco-friendly materials but not paying livable wages,” said Joy.

For on campus sustainability resources, check out @nccsustainable and @ncc_greenscene on Instagram. You can also follow Elizabeth Joy at @consciousstyle.